Wantan Mee: Chulia Street or Burma Road

Back in primary school, virtually everyday, my grandma would treat me for lunch at Mount Eskine hawker centre where I would happily slurp in a plate of wantan mee. Ah..those where the days. Well, it's been two odd months since I left Penang, but it's never too late to publicise my two favorite wantan stalls in Penang - Burma Road and Chulia Street.

A few words about wantan mee in Penang, instead of the sticky sweet char siew (BBQ pork) that adorns versions in Ipoh and Kuala Lumpur, it is more often served with pink-edged lean barbequed pork. Wantan mee eaters in Penang may choose their noodles to be served in soup (“teng”) or dried sauce (“dry”) which is usually accompanied with steamed or deep-fried dumplings.

Wantan Mee @ Burma Road (Large – RM4.50, Medium – RM4.00, Small – RM3.50)

We started at the Wantan Stall at Burmah Road, a stone throw away from the famous Apong Guan. I have been eating the wantan mee served here by a son-mother team since I was a child. What I love about this dish is that there is less use of dark sauce  hence less salty compared to the norm which allows one to savour the springy and elastic texture of the noodles. 

The viscous gravy had a incredible meaty flavour. The char siu shavings that sat atop the noodles were moist, however the icing on the cake had to be the flawless wantan. The skin thin yet robust enough to hold it’s form in the hot broth. At the nudge of your tongue, packs of flavoursome pork filings effortlessly melts on your palate.

For the soup based dish, rather than having the noodles drowned in a tub of soup (typical in wantan stalls elsewhere on the island), their noodles are served in a small portion of broth. A good serving of wantan noodles noodles can never do without the fragrance of lard oil dressing. Also don’t forget the pickled green chillies. Those tiny gems just ties the whole dish together, adding a hint of sourness, sweetness and heat, perfectly complimenting the slight saltiness of the gravy.

Wantan Mee @ Chulia Street (Large – RM4.50, Small – RM3.30)

The second Wantan Mee stall, that I reckon for most Penangites need no introduction, is located on Chulia Street.It’s just like the Hunger Games out here, first you have to wait with prying eyes, ready to “pounce” at any vacant table once available. Then, you have to maneuverer your way past hungry customers and finally shout your order.  Not the most ladylike sight, but that’s how things operate around here.

The attraction here, is the texture of the noodles. This brother-brother-mother team master the art of handing the delicate noodles, producing the ultimate textbook “Q”, meaning chewy, springy and elastic. Their method –boil, soak in cool water, reheat with a quick re-dip into boiling water,  wait patiently for water to drain off and evaporate before transferring the noodles onto a plate of dark sauce with long wooden chopsticks.

Also noteworthy is that the wantan appears two ways: deep-fried and boiled. Most diners prefer their noodles “dry”. Why they do so? Trust me, it will become evident as soon as you have your first bite. Not having the noodles drench in soup allows the sauce to provide just the right amount of coating to sustain moisture and the springy irresistible Q-ness of the noodles. Located beside this stall is the famous curry mee stall. Chulia Streets seems to be more popular than Burma Road, nevertheless, it all boils down to individual preferences. Personally I would prefer the wantons in Burma road, however noodle wise, my vote is with Chulia Street as they are more chewy and springy. Either way you’ll leave feeling satisfied.

Wantan Mee @ Burma Road

Address: Jalan Burma (beside Union Primary School), 10050 George Town, Pulau Pinang.

Operating hours: 10am to 5pm

Other popular choices nearby: Apong Guan (beside), Him Heang Confectionary (opposite)

Wantan Mee @ Chulia Street

Address: Lebuh Chulia, 10100 George Town, Pulau Pinang.

Operating hours: Nigh time

Other popular choices nearby: Curry Mee (beside)

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The Best Penang Curry Mee @ Lebuh Keng Kwee

Four weeks in Penang, I’ve eased into a routine that I could only dream about. For far too long I’ve been cycling my way across the streets of Melbourne. In Penang, I could finally get behind the wheel and drive wherever and whenever I want. Shopping at the morning wet market with mum, finding “our” regular butcher and exchanging hellos with “our” fishmonger. I’ve spent hours along Lebuh Keng Kwee, hunkered over bowls of Curry Mee, Chendol and Laksa. If you’re contemplating on roaming the streets of Georgetown, you’d be crazy to skip Lebuh Keng Kwee.

Curry Mee aka Curry Laksa (RM3, RM3.50, RM5.50)

Hands down, the best Curry Mee EVER!! Located up the street from the “famous” Teochew cendol. To savour this bowl of spicy goodness, timing is of the essence. Eng who’s the chef and owner is off every Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. The ever cheerful and voluble Eng is kinda semi-retired and loves travelling. Hence it did not come as a surprise to me when she took the whole of Chinese New Year off. “Whole” as in the first to the fifteenth day.

A generous spoonful of sambal. The secret to Eng’s flavoursome sambal is the addition of curry powder and chicken stock. Eng is never stingy with her recipe. Yet who cares, it’s almost impossible to replicate this bowl of divine goodness.

A bowl of thin yellow noodles and string thin mee-hoon (rice vermicelli) served with curry broth, pig’s blood cubes. chilli sambal, coconut milk, dried tofu puffs, chicken, soaked cuttlefish slices, mint leaves and finely sliced ginger flowers. Although many might shun away from pig’s blood cubes, Penang Curry Mee will not quite be the same without them.

Unlike most Penang Curry Mee, Eng’s curry mee is more inclined towards the Nonya style of cooking with the addition of sliced ginger flowers (bunga kantan) and fresh mint leaves. Balancing that fine line between creamy coconut milk and refreshing mint leaves. I usually request for chicken drumstick instead of wings and she delivered. Eng’s attention to detail is simply impeccable: from the careful handling of the noodles to the large blob of sambal in our spoon, the springs of fresh mint leaves and the finely chopped ginger flower that garnish each serving. It is evident that Eng has put a generous amount of ingredients in her curry broth as the complex flavours just burst in your mouth. Spicy, sweet, rich, aromatic, fragrant – everything about it was right. It almost felt like I was in her home rather than her shop.

Address: Lebuh Keng Kwee, off Penang Road

Contact: +6016 4620257

Opening hours: 8am to 4pm. Weds to Sat. Closed on Sun, Mon and Tues.

Nearby eats: Penang Famous Teochew Chendul, Laksa

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Thaipusam in Penang (January 17, 2014)

This is embarrassing…after 20 years in Penang, I had never once witnessed Thaipusam until today. It was reported that 1.5 million tourists and devotees from all over the world flocked into Penang just to see the colours, noise and activities of Thaipusam, hence it would be silly of me to give this special day a miss. What was perceived as Hindu devotes piercing needles into virtually every part of their bodies, Indian music blasting through the speakers, beating of drums from afar and endless honking sound from automobiles or motorbikes turned out to be an eye opener. 

Mainly celebrated by the Tamil community, Thaipusam is a key Hindu festival that is held each year during the full moon in the tenth month of the Hindu Calendar.  This day marks the day when Lord Shiva’s son, Murugan, was given a lance to vanquish three demons. In Penang, the events taken place can stretch for 3 days throughout the day and night. For the devotees, it’s a day dedicated as a thanksgiving to Lord Murugan (also known as Subramaniam) for answered prayers, faith and penance. For me, it’s a day of appreciation towards the diversity and uniqueness towards the Malaysian (Hindu) culture. 

On the eve of Thaipusam (which I did not attend), thousands of devotees line the streets to see the 120-year-old Silver Chariot bearing the statue of Lord Muruga making its annual 7.2km journey from the Sri Mahamariamman Temple in Queen Street to the Nattukotai Chettiar Temple in Jalan Air Terjun (Waterfall Road) where it is to stay temporarily.  

On the day of Thaipusam itself, devotees undertake a pilgrimage to the Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Kovil (Hindu temple) located high on a hill. As a fulfilment for answered prayers, many devotees go to extreme lengths including subjecting themselves to seemingly masochistic acts. To avoid the intense heat of Malaysian weather, I decided to join in the crowd of Indians later in the day (around 5pm) at Waterfall Road.

These three guys pulled the heavy purple chariot with metal hooks fastened into their skin of their backs.

 

Some carried pots of milk known as “paal kudam” on their heads while others carried “kavadis” (i.e. elaborate ornamental frameworks of spikes that pierce the skin of the carrier. Some penitents went as far as piercing their cheeks and tongues with hooks and skewers (or ‘vels’ – symbolic spears).

Devotees prepare themselves for the celebration by practicing strict disciplinary code on personal life style and elaborate ceremonies before assuming the kavadi. One may think this ritual may be excruciating, even verging on violent, but blood is not shed and devotees believe that as long as they have faith, they will be “protected” by the spiritual and mental endurance.

Each kavadi carrier had a group of chanting helpers who encouraged and danced along them throughout the procession. The helpers form a protective ring around the kavadi in order ensure that the wearer can dance freely to the thundering music. I say “thundering” because the music was so load that I felt my heart almost beat out my chest. Whenever there’s a kavadi coming towards my direction, I was pushed to one side and squashed against whoever that stands beside. I’ll feel really bad and guilty if I hit a kavadi. *wringe*

On the next day, the silver chariot carrying Lord Muruga makes a return trip to Kovil Veedu Temple on Penang Street. Coconuts were smashed on the roads before the chariot. Generally, coconut breaking signifies the smashing of one’s ego, revealing the purity and for banishing obstacles in life to begin a clearer and brighter future ahead.

Devotee patiently waiting for the arrival of the Silver Chariot whilst holding a plate of offerings of flowers, fruits and incense to Lord Muruga

Musicians and drummers add to the carnival feel

The 120 year old silver chariot was pulled by two bulls with blue coloured ribbons wrapped around their horns

It’s funny how one appreciates one’s culture only after travelling abroad. Walking aside kavadis, the thumping of drums, the colourful decorations and lights, the festive atmosphere  is an experience like no other. 

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Ping Hooi Coffee Shop - Tiger Char Koay Teow, Loh Bak, Wan Tan Mee

 

Tiger Char Koay Teow (without eggs RM4.50; chicken eggs RM5.00; duck eggs RM5.50)

One can never say that one have been to Penang unless one tasted the authentic Penang Char Koay Teow (Stir-fried rice noodles). These days they’re so common internationally and found virtually in every Malaysian restaurant worldwide. In other words, you don’t have to visit Penang to eat Char Koay Teow. So what’s the big deal? Why down a greasy plate of noodles?

 

 

What I have above is a plate of Tiger Char Koay Teow – a personal favourite. Even the late “Mr Honda”, Loh Boon Siew was a weekly customer at this stall which have been operated by the Yeow family for three generations.. How should I describe this dish? Fluffy rice noodles charred to perfection, crunchy bean sprouts and chives, fresh and juicy prawns, airy eggs. Yes, airy DUCK eggs is the most sough-after characteristic of Tiger Char Koay Teow. It’s almost uncanny that a simple duck egg could elevate both the texture and flavour of this dish to a whole new level.

 

 

In the red-hot wok, a considerable amount of pork lark, bean sprouts, rice noodles were continuously mixed, pushed, stirred, flipped, cut, churned at warp speed. The end result, a small serving of heavenly goodness that quenches your thirst for Char Koay Teow, leaving you yearning for more. The only thing that stopped me from ordering a second dish was the calories!!

 

For decades, Yeow (the present owner) had been playing second fiddle to his father. But, ever since taking over the business, he has never cease to improve his skills. Today, this dish more than anything, tells me that Yeow is a maestro of his art.

 

Special Loh Bak (RM3 to RM5 depending on selected ingredients)

Situated next to Tiger’s stall is this Loh Bak stall which sells an assortment of battered fish, bean curb, prawn fritters and Loh Bak (deep fried five spiced pork wrapped in tofu skin).

 

 

Unlike the conventional fatty grounded pork, here, the pork layers were quite lean, springy and juicy. Served with a small bowl of Loh (a thick broth thickened with corn starch and beaten eggs) and chilli sauce.

 

Address: 179, Carnavon Street, 10300, Georgetown, Penang.

Opening hours: 8am to 2:30pm. Opens Daily.

Contact number: +6016 258 0926

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Padang Kota Lama Food Court – Hameed 'Pata' Special Mee Sotong, Coconut Shake

Mee Sotong (RM4.00 to RM6.00)

The funny thing about studying abroad – it’s almost impossible to truly appreciate one's hometown until one leaves it. In my case, the same goes for Penang Mee Sotong (Spicy Fried Noodles with squid). Given that I was not a big fan of the yellow noodles, the term ‘Mee Goreng’ was virtually missing from my vocabulary. However, I told myself that this time I would give the famous Hameed Mee Sotong a shot and indeed I did. From the first bite, I was in heaven. The dish had a perfect balance of salty, sour, spicy and with generous amount of sauce, topped with fried squid. The noodles themselves had a gorgeous ‘slightly burnt’ aroma yet not too dry. 

Squeezing the lemon wedge over the dish is an absolute must as it brings out the flavours and adds a contrasting tartness.

It was as early as 1942 that Hameed’s father started selling Mee Rebus and Mee Goreng. Since taking over his father’s buisness, Hameed had been working on creating the perfect Mee Goreng. The secret that puts his Mee Sotong above the others is the addition of fried sotong (squids) in a thick sauce adding moisture and packed with irresistible flavours.

3pm, well passed lunch time and the long queue of people eagerly await their plate of Mee Sotong. Look at the crowd!! 

Coconut Shake (RM3.00)

Lured by the thought of fresh coconut water and silky coconut flesh topped with a scoop of milky vanilla ice cream, I can’t resist not ordering this drink. If you find that the Mee Sotong is too spicy for your palate, this cup of icy cold coconut shake is tailor made for you.

Almost overshadowed by the grandeur of Fort Cornwallis this food court can be easily overlooked by many but I must say that one bite of Hameed’s Mee Sotong is enough to tempt you back for more. I for one will most certainly add this to my list of Penang Must Eats.

Address: Padang Kota Lama/ Esplanade Food Court. Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah Road, Penang.

Opening hours: 12pm – 8pm, Monday to Saturday; closed on Sundays.

Nearby sites: Fort Cornwallis, Penang Clan Jetties, Peranakan Mansion 

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Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi

Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi during Lunar New Year Celebration 2013

Under the hot and humid climate of Penang, four Penangites strolled along the old streets of Georgetown into the gates of Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi or in short Khoo Kongsi. Leong San Tong (“Dragon Mountain Hall”), one of the most majestic clan house in South East Asia is literally a hidden treasure as it stays barricaded within the crowded gridiron of terrace houses and shop houses along Cannon and Armenian Street.

Rows of 19th century terrace houses before entering the main courtyard

The forefathers of the Khoo Clan came from Sin Kang Seah, Sin Aun village, Hokkien province, China.The original Chinese character ‘Khoo’ was written as 丘(Qiu), however during the Qing dynasty, the Emperor ordered those having this surname to add the radical becoming 邱 as a mark of respect for the sage Confucius whose personal name was 丘.

The magnificence and grandeur of Leong San Tong rooted on the granite tiles, embellished with intricate carvings on stones and wood of superior quality and rich ornaments marking the pinnacle of craftsmanship from China

Green stone male lion guarding the courtyard as well as the clanhouse

 

Prayer Pavilion and Main Building

In 1850, the present site of Leong San Tong (97,035 sq. ft.) was bought by the Khoos. At that time, there stood a British owned local bungalow which was then converted into Leong San Tong, in which the deity of Tua Sai Yah and ancestral tablets from Sin Kang were enshrined. This Hall was mainly used for gathering, ancestral worship and weddings.

Plaque of Leong San Tong at the front entrance of Cheng Soon Keong temple (正顺宫)

Cheng Soon Keong, the central hall of Leong San Tong, enshrines Ong Soon Yah (the Great Duke) and Tua Sai Yah (the Noble)  who are the patron saints of the Khoos

Western tigers roaming in the woods (top left), Eastern dragon in the cloud and sea facing China (top right); Laughing monk sitting on pennies (bottom left), Crying monk (bottom right) depicting the coexistence of joy and sorrow of life

The octagonal columns at the veranda of the upper floor of the main hall are made of a single piece of green stone with carvings of immortals and other auspicious animals

In the building, a total of 12 ‘diao lan’ (hanging basket) hang under the eaves of the main hall and prayer pavilion

Round ventilated window features the “Observation Pavilion”

Back then, most of the Sikhs served as guards

Kitchen

Typical Southern Fujian styled kitchen

Opera Stage

Opera stage directly opposite Leong San Tong, still used for stage performance and other entertainments

Left Room (now the clan museum)

Address: 18, Cannon Square, 10200 Penang, Malaysia
Tel/ Fax: 604-2642119 (Ticketing Office); 604-2614609 (Administrative Office)
Website: www.khookongsi.com.my
Opening Hours: 9:00am to 5:00pm daily

Entrance Fee: Children RM1, Adult RM10 (Discount may apply for student card holders, I got mine for RM1, visitors with a surname of Khoo might get free entry)

Nearby sights:  Acheh Street Mosque, Poh Hock Seah, 120 Armenian Street (Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang Base), Yap Kongsi, Cheah Kongsi, Lim Kongsi, Armenian Street Mural (Girl and boy on bicycle), Ah Quee Street Mural (Boy on bike), Cannon Street Mural (boy on chair)

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